4. Winter retreat: Formentera

Published on 24 December 2024 at 12:00

At the start of November, my boyfriend and I were lucky enough to spend a few days on the gorgeous sister island of Ibiza: Formentera. I'd visited a handful of times previously, hopping over on the ferry for the day when friends and family were visiting, each time in the height of summer. I knew I'd only ever experienced a snippet of the island, so I was really looking forward to a good few days of exploring, away from the crowds of the peak tourist season. As the island is so small, and a majority of the roads are not suitable for heavy traffic, there's restricted vehicle flow on the island during summer. But, from October 1st - May 31st these restrictions are lifted! So, we boarded the 9am car ferry from the Puerto de Ibiza, waved adiós to the moody clouds above Ibiza and soon arrived at a slightly sunnier Puerto de Formentera.

 

First, we headed to the picturesque town of Sant Francesc Xavier, which is actually the island's capital. In the summer months, the town is usually bustling, with open air markets and narrow streets full of tourists hopping between boutiques and quaint restaurants. However, for us, it was November 1st, a huge día festivo (bank holiday) in Spain, so most businesses were closed due to that. Luckily, there were some trusty cafes open in the town so we had a lovely brunch stop at Del Centro, located in the Plaza de la Constitución. They're open all year, serving great coffee and options for el desayuno (breakfastright through to la cena (dinner). In summer, there's a free jazz concert in this square every Saturday night (from 10pm) - so I imagine this cafe would be a real gem to soak up the atmosphere. From here, we made our way to the lighthouse, el Faro del Cabo de Barbaria, where we discovered those moody skies had followed us! Although fascinating to watch a storm system rolling across the sea, not wanting to actually get caught in a downpour, we headed back to the shelter of the car. We made one more stop to have a quick walk around Es Pujols to check out the rustic embarcaderos (fishing jetties) - well worth a visit! By the time we had driven down to our hotel for the weekend, El Hotel Riu Palace La Mola, the grey skies had kindly passed so it was time to chill out at the beach and make use of the hotel's facilities. If you're dreaming of a low season escape to Formentera, be sure to check out their website for any offers during the start/end of season periods. We went for the half-board option and were really impressed by the variety at both breakfast and dinner.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

The weather was on our side for Day 2 & 3, and they consisted of a blissful mix of sunrises, sunsets, kayaking, snorkelling, idyllic coastal hikes and, of course, eating our way through the breakfast and dinner offerings! After a grey first day, it was a real treat to have some gorgeous blue skies and temperatures of around 18 degrees! The sea isn't the warmest at this time of the year, but if you're like me and don't mind a cold dip - it was just right for some uninterrupted snorkelling! A good spot for this was just along from the hotel, at Playa Los Arenales, where there was also a delightful little Chiringuito open - el Piratabus.  A real pinch-moment was kayaking along the coastline of Ses Illetes - the beach there is often packed in the summer so it was such a treat to be there and not have to tip-toe between beach blankets to get to the sea! The serene shades of the turquoise waters at Ses Illetes live rent-free in my mind, and I'm beyond grateful for that. A true slice of paradise... 

Top tips to make the most of a Formentera getaway:

  • Hire a bike/be ready for a hiking holiday! Although it was great to have the car for ease of transporting the kayak around, the size of the island (and the narrow lanes) make it super friendly for cyclists and hikers to get around. There's also bus services in the summer -but be sure to check out the timetables here: Bus Formentera
  • Do your research - check which restaurants/hotels will be open and book ahead. If off-season sounds just a bit too calm, you'll find plenty of options open from June-September. Be prepared for some higher price points though, hence why planning ahead is key.
  • Respect nature, and the locals. Keep noise to a respectable level and while enjoying the outdoors, leave no trace! Keep your rubbish with you until you find a bin and recycle where possible. 
  • Remember what luxury means to you. For some, a trip to Formentera could be a chance to be seen splashing the cash in a beach-front restaurant, but you can definitely experience island luxury without having to re-mortgage your house. For me, it's having the chance to slow down and connect with nature, watch a stunning sunset or simply sinking my toes into the soft sand at a locally-owned chiringuito and being mesmerised by the crystalline waters. 
  • Check out Turismo de Formentera for more and get planning your next adventure!

 

Got a question? Be sure to get in touch and I'll be happy to answer quicker than you can say hasta luego

Ciao for now, Teacher Charlie x

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